Simple cooking in a complicated world

Posts from the ‘Side Dish’ category

Osso Buco with Risotto Milanese

 

A braised Italian classic that is sure to satisfy even the most critical dinner guests.

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Have you ever had one of those dishes at a restaurant, when the instant the fork passed your lips, entered your mouth, and your taste buds came in contact with that delicious bite of food, you knew you had to recreate that dish at home as soon as possible?  The kind of dish that made you savour every bite, meditate on the layers upon layers of complex flavours, and unabashedly lick your plate.  These are the dishes of memorable meals; meals that stick with you for years.  This is the standard that all other dishes are compared to, and the one that conjures pangs of regret following below par dining experiences.

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I had a few of these types of meals in my time and my heart just flutters when I think about it.  I think you all know I love food.  I love to cook food, but I loooovvvee to eat food, especially when it’s prepared by expert hands.  There is nothing that brings me greater pleasure than an evening spent dining at a cozy restaurant, eating sophisticated but homey, unpretentious but beautiful food, and reveling in the flavours plated in front of me.  This is why for the past few birthdays, I have spared my husband the misery of finding the perfect birthday gift, and opted for” birthday experiences” instead.  And as you might have guessed, these experiences usually centre on food; usually a dinner at a restaurant that I’ve had my eye on for quite some time.  It was at one of these birthday dinners where I had osso buco for the first time.

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Mlinci (Pasta Tatters)

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Thanks again to Silvia from The Domesticated Feminist for making the blog swap last week happen.  Just a note on her recipe for medenjaci, the flour measurement on the recipe for medenjaci has been changed.  Also, please read the comments for other suggestions.  In case you missed it, here is the recipe I posted for the swap.

In my family it just isn’t Christmas unless there is a gigantic bowl of mlinci (mleen-tzi) on the table.  No way, no how!  I can pretty much guarantee you that of all the dishes that grace our Christmas table, mlinci  is the one that everyone looks forward to.  Turkey is just not the same without it.  Stuffing?  It just can’t cut it!  This is where it’s at.  Tender, pasta-like shards of dough baked thin and then softened first with boiling water, before being slathered with the golden, flavour laden juices from the roasting pan.  Add little pieces of turkey left behind on the cutting board from the carving, and you have the best side dish ever.2

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This is a Northern Croatian speciality, a solution to the leftover juices from roasting.  Unlike North Americans, Croatians don’t make gravy with their turkey.  Many families do today (mine included), as they took up the tradition from their adopted country, but traditionally mlinci were made to ensure that those flavourful juices did not go to waste.  The hard part is trying to explain to people who never had mlinci what they are.

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Sataraš (Satarash)

To many of my ethnic Croatian readers this posting is totally unnecessary.  Sataraš to a Croatian is like tomato sauce to Italians or salsa to Mexicans; it’s a staple that arrives to the table without even a glance at a recipe or reaching for a measuring cup.  Even for me, a perfectionist to the core, a lover of recipes and proponent of protecting the integrity of dishes created by others, lets loose and relaxes when it comes to making sataraš.  Ultimately, it’s really difficult to screw this up and pretty much anything goes – well sort of.

So before I continue I want to give a shout out to all of my non-Croatian readers who have perhaps tried one of the recipes from the motherland, contemplated making it or simply appreciated it for what it is, delicious, simple and heart warming food.  If you’ve ever been to a Croatian wedding and had schnitzle and sataraš, or maybe you’ve been invited to a Croatian wedding in the past and remember yourself dreading having to sit at a table with a bunch of people speaking a foreign language or listening to polka music all night long. But somewhere, deep inside of you, you look forward to it because you can’t wait to sink your teeth in to a fat schnitzle slathered with red sauce.  And then, maybe after a good meal, some shots of šljivo (plum brandy) and a bottle or two of wine, the polka starts to sound pretty good and you’re learning Croatian swear words from the groom’s father while drinking more šljivo with him at the bar. Then the next thing you know, you find yourself on the dance floor, hand in hand with a middle-aged Croatian woman on your right and a cute girl on your left laughing and shaking her head at you while she tries to teach you the basket weave shouting, “Left step, right over, left step, right back,” as you dance your first Croatian line dance to the wail of the accordian.

As I said earlier, sataraš is a main stay in the Croatian kitchen, like salsa is to the Latin culture, in fact it very much resembles salsa.  When my husband brought schnitzle and  sataraš leftovers to work one day he came home telling me that next time I have to make more for the guys at work who were asking if he had anymore “chicken and salsa.”  At it’s core, it contains all of the same ingredients as salsa, but while salsa is made up of uncooked vegetables, sataraš is slowly stewed until the vegetables are tender, flavours have melded and juices concentrated.  And unlike its Latin counterpart that is served cold or a room temperature, sataraš is served hot.  While my family has always had sataraš with breaded chicken, veal or pork cutlets – aka schnitzle – I know that it is also enjoyed as a vegetable stew with hearty piece of bread or as a side dish with roast pork and potatoes.

With as many ways as there are to consume sataraš there are just as many ways to prepare it.  It’s often made at the end of summer when there are an abundance of tomatoes, peppers and onions in the garden and as such, it is a great way to use up a surplus of these veg.  In theory, you can really add any kind of vegetable (I’ve seen it made with the addition of carrots and celery, which I”m not a huge fan of)  and it can be made in the winter with canned tomatoes, but in my opinion, nothing beats a big pot of sataraš with fresh summer vegetables.  So instead of making it with canned tomatoes and imported peppers, make a big batch now and can it for the winter.  Of course you don’t have to eat it with schnitzle either; it also serves as a fantastic base for other dishes.  This batch of sataraš provided a ton of leftovers which I transformed into a base for my chicken enchillada filling – ironic isn’t it!

Sataraš

I really debated about putting measurements into the ingredient list for this recipe because I don’t want you to get bogged down with specific quantities while making this dish, because you frankly don’t need to concern yourself with that.  So instead I am going to provide you with a ratio, a ratio of how many vegetables are required in relation to the others.  The largest quantity of the three vegetables required to make this dish is peppers, the second is tomatoes, then finally onions, all in a 3 to 2 to 1 ratio.  For example, if you have 3 peppers, you should have 2 tomatoes and 1 onion, or 6 peppers, 4 tomatoes and 2 onions and so on.  It’s really that simple.  But if you don’t have enough peppers for this ratio or maybe you have more tomatoes than needed but you would like to get them off your counter, then go ahead and throw it in the pot.  There really is no way to screw this up – just don’t put celery in it, please. 

Quantity varies

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 part onion, chopped

2 to 3 cloves or garlic, minced

3 parts medium to large, peppers seeded and chopped coarsely (bell, shepherds, banana, hungarian, anything goes)

1 hot pepper or chile, minced (optional)

2 parts medium to large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped (plum, beefsteak, earl girls, you guessed it – anything goes!)

Vegeta to taste

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large pot (a wide and shallow pot is ideal as it allows the moisture to evaporate more quickly than a deep pot) over medium heat, pour in oil and sweat onions for 5 minutes until translucent.  Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.  Place the peppers in the pan and cook until they are almost tender about 10 to 15 minutes, depending on how many peppers you are cooking.

Meanwhile,  prep your tomatoes by scoring them with an “x” and placing them in a pot, large enough to hold them all.  Cover with a lid and steam them over medium-low heat for 5 to 7 minutes.  When you notice the skin beginning to pull away from the flesh, remove from heat and allow to cool.  When cool enough to handle, peel and core the tomatoes.  Slice them in quarters and seed them by squeezing each quarter over a bowl to catch the extra liquid and seeds (you can strain this liquid from the seeds and reserve the juice incase your sataraš  becomes to thick during the cooking process).  While it may seem like an unnecessary step, seeding the tomatoes are in fact very important, as too many seeds will make the sataraš bitter.  Chop the quarters into chunks and add to the peppers and onions.  Bring to a simmer and cook uncovered until most of the liquid has evaporated and you are left with chunky stew, that resembles, well – salsa!

Season with Vegeta, salt and pepper and serve hot over schnitzle or however you choose.

I have an included an in-depth step-by-step guide to home canning from Bernardin in case this recipe inspires you to try a hand at preserving your own food.  It’s a totally worth the time and effort!

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Romano Beans with Bread Crumbs and Bacon

Lately I’ve been on a vintage kick.  Anything old, used, with character and cheap makes me a little giddy, ok a lot of giddy!  I love the feeling of a great find, when you come across something that is one of a kind, that no one else has – well no one of your generation that is.  I think it’s the history major in me, the love of what is old, a respect for traditions and an appreciation for good quality and timelessness; all of these characteristics attract me to vintage items.  I love the look of a classic clutch paired with a pair of modern heels or an antique persian rug spread out below a minimalist table.  The clash of old and new is so expressive and interesting and I just can’t get enough of it.

Where buying vintage or used was once looked down upon by others, today it’s really starting to take off.  There are more and more vintage stores popping up than ever before and I have no quips or qualms about going out of my way for these unique finds, because frankly, the hunt for a great buy is the most fun.  I go to Toronto not to shop at the Eaton’s centre but to dig through treasures in Kensington Market.  My favourite shops on Queen West are west of Spadina, not the heavily commercialized shopping strip in the heart of downtown.  I’ll take Ossington over Yorkville any day because when you can find vintage Marc Jacobs for $30 (yes, that’s right, I said thirty dollars) or a Parisian made and perfectly tailored houndstooth blazer for $40 you can’t go wrong.  Of course, these were some lucky finds and often the Chanel bags, YSL sunglasses and Hermès scarves reach into the hundreds of dollars, which are still quite reasonable for labels of this stature.

The search for vintage furniture, home decor and kitchen ware are other hunts I frequent.  I love getting my hands on beautiful and delicate English China, platters, plates, cups and saucers, beautifully embossed silverware or heavy cut crystal tumblers.  I recently stumbled upon a handsome wrought-iron chandelier to hang beneath our pergola.  When browsing through antique stores I often forget to look up at the lighting fixtures hanging from the ceiling.  Luckily, as I was walking out I decided to turn back and give a quick glance upwards and saw this rustic chandelier sitting above a Victorian dinning table set with Royal Albert China.  While much of the furnishings and accents in antique stores look, well antique, especially since they are often staged in the fashion and times they were first manufactured in, many people are put off by the look, deeming it too traditional for their modern tastes.  I find the best way to shop antique stores is to look at each piece individually, that way you can appreciate its beauty on its own and envision it sitting in your own home, amongst your own belongings.  So when I saw this chandelier above a very formal and traditional setting I automatically saw its potential as a centrepiece in a contemporary suburban backyard.  The thought of warm nights spent beneath the flickering glow of candle light makes me wish that the dog days of summer were still upon us.

Summer may be slipping away from us, but the summer bounty is still a force to be reckoned with.  I try very hard to prevent any of the vegetables from my garden from going to waste so I am always on the look out for new recipes.  Last year, I found this recipe in a Williams-Sonoma cookbook called, Cooking from the Farmer’s Market.  It’s a great cookbook with so many wonderful recipes that highlight the produce found in different seasons.  In fact, the cookbook is organized in seasons and vegetables/fruit, making searching for a recipe super easy.  The recipe it includes for Romano beans is one I alternate with the one I posted a couple of weeks ago, called “Nick’s Beans”.  I called it “Nick’s Beans” because that’s what we call it around here.  It’s a dish his mother and grandmother have always made without the use of a recipe, so since it’s an original I’ve taken the liberty to call it “Nick’s Beans”.  I would bring home a bag of beans from the garden and my husband Nick would ask, “Are you making my beans?” and I would reply, “Yes, I am making your beans.”  He then would smile ear to ear, plant a kiss on my cheek and say, “You’re the best Boon,” a silly nickname he gave me years ago, during the height of the TV show, Lost.  He thought the character’s name was one of the “funniest” names he ever heard – he used a lot less forgiving adjective, which I will refrain from using in the effort of not offending a reader or a reader’s loved one who may carry this name.  Since it was such a “funny” name to him he decided to call me Boon from that day forth.

If this recipe I am sharing with you today was my own and not one I came across in one of my cookbooks, I would call it “Ana’s Beans” or maybe even “Boon’s Beans!”  This is MY favourite way of preparing Romano beans.  While Nick’s beans are stewed slowly in tomatoes and become soft and buttery, these still retain some of their crispness.  The fragrant and flavourful bread crumb coating with garlic and thyme boosts the creamy texture of the beans, while the crisp bacon compliments its meatiness.  I haven’t tried it yet, but I would imagine that this recipe would also work with green beans, which are all also all over farmer’s markets right now.  So regardless of what kind of beans you have at home, this recipe will suit them all.

Below are a list of some of famous vintage and antique shops in Toronto and Hamilton area:

Hamilton:

The Millionaire’s Daughter

This is a furniture and home furnishings consignment store.  While they have some antique pieces they also have many contemporary pieces as well.  They have been featured in Style at Home Magazine and on City Line and have opened up a new store in Oakville.

Granny’s Attic Treasures

This is where I picked up my chandelier

Second Chance Consignment Boutique

Great choice for classic pieces and work wear.

Toronto:

Fashionably Yours

All contemporary mens and women clothing and accessories.  They carry the top labels; think Chanel, Prada, Christian Louboutain and the like.

Penny Arcade

Select vintage pieces make this shop in Toronto’s Little Portugal/Ossington neighbourhood a stand out boutique.

Vintage Mix 1

An eclectic mix of contemporary and classic vintage pieces from clothing, shoes and accessories to records, luggage and  bags.

I Miss You

High end vintage alert!  As the review in the link says, “This is one of those places you want to avoid for the fear of dropping mad cash!”

If you have any great vintage store finds leave me a comment.  I know that

Romano Beans with Bacon and Bread Crumbs

Serves 4 as a side dish

1 pound trimmed Romano beans

3 slices of bacon

1/4 cup olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 and 1/2 tablespoons fresh thyme

1/4 bread crumbs

Bring a large pot of water to boil.  When the water comes to a boil, salt the water very generously and add the beans.  Cook the beans until almost tender, about 5 minutes if you are using green beans, the cooking time will be less).  Drain the beans using a colander and run under cool water to stop the cooking process.  In a large pan (you will use this pan to finish off the beans) crisp up the bacon and set aside to cool.  Drain the pan of excess fat, but leave the bits that maybe have stuck to the bottom intact.

To the pan, add the garlic and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.  Sprinkle in the bread crumbs and toast until lightly browned.  Add in the beans and toss thoroughly to coat.  Reheat the beans for 2 to 3 minutes in the pan, or until they just warmed through.  Tear the bacon up into little pieces and sprinkle over the beans.  Serve hot with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

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Nick’s Beans

A few days ago my husband and I celebrated our third wedding anniversary.  It’s amazing how quickly time passes.  It seems like only yesterday I watched my husband through my bedroom window, as he approached my parent’s home to take me to church.  The street alive with music as his family and friends walked down my street singing Starom Cestom, an old Croatian wedding song.  It’s hard to believe that three years ago my husband had to “barter” with my dad and uncle to buy me for a good price, only to be cheated by winning my cousin, my male cousin no less, dressed up as a faux bride!  It feels like only a few months ago my groom had to show his manliness and worthiness and saw through a log that blocked off the entrance to his bride’s home.  Three years ago Nick and I said I do.

My husband with family, friends and band in tow, walking to my parent’s home where I was waiting to be taken to church and married. Nick is the one with the sunglasses on, in the centre of the crowd.

My cousin dressed up as a fake bride. The tradition is to fool the groom’s family with an imposter while the bride’s family makes off with the cash. Not sure what gave my cousin away though…

Nick proving his worthiness as a strong and able husband, as he cuts through the log that also serves as a barrier to the groom’s family until a deal is struck with the bride’s family.

After all that work, he finally got the girl!

When we began planning for our wedding, we knew from the very beginning that we wanted to include the pre-wedding festivities at the bride’s home, common in certain parts of Croatia, but not so common anywhere else.  Anyone who knows us, know that Nick and I first and foremost, like to have a good time and secondly, our cultural traditions are very important to us.  Thus, what you’re seeing in the pictures above, was a given for us right from the start.  While I did commit a major North American faux pas by seeing my groom before I walked down the aisle, it was a small price to pay to have the wedding of our dreams.  For us, it was totally that; a proper village wedding in a Canadian suburb.  Today we look back on the incredible day with huge smiles on our faces, reliving those special moments through vivid memories and thinking back on our wedding day with much fondness and appreciation.

The recipe I’m showcasing today goes out to my hubby, hence the aptly named title, Nick’s Beans, and since we just celebrated our anniversary I thought it was the perfect time to share it with you.  This dish was one of the dishes listed on my husband’s “You Need to Learn how to Cook This as Good as My Mom” list.  Also included on this list is Goulash, Stuffed Peppers, Cabbage Rolls (not on here yet, but will be in time for Sarma season, aka Christmas) and Polivka (a salad made with young spring lettuce with a warm sour cream dressing).  Anyway, these beans are my husband’s favourite and rightly so; they’re darn tasty.  They may not look like the most glamorous plate of Romano beans out there, but what comfort food does look sexy and sophisticated?  Don’t get me wrong, to me nothing is more attractive when it comes to food than a plate of something that not only satisfies the taste buds, but the soul as well.  This one, Nick’s Beans, in my book is right up there with a hearty beef stew or dare I say, chilli!  Yes, it’s that good.

The beans is this recipe calls for the Romano variety, or otherwise known as Italian green beans.  They’re the premature beans and pods of the marbelized red and white Romano shelled beans.  Regular green beans or haricot vert just don’t cut it for this recipe.  The Romanos are much meatier and starchier and when they cook down – and they need to cook down quite a bit here – they become tender and succulent.  Luckily, most grocery stores carry these beans and you can definitely find them at the Farmer’s Market.  If you grow them like I do, then you already know how tasty this variety is.  This veg is my grandmother’s - fellow farmer and gardening mentor – favourite.  She plants a ton of stalks so now I am cooking beans almost every day and still passing them off to anyone who is remotely interested in cooking them.  If anyone reading this out there gets inspired and wants to give it a try, drop me a line and I’ll give you some!

Just a note on the new format of my website.  I have been feeling that the site needed a bit of a facelift for quite a while.  I felt that the previous layout did not showcase the pictures of my recipes on the homepage the way I wanted to.  I feel that the new site features my pictures much more effectively and subsequently serves as an appetizer. enticing you and drawing you in for the main course – the recipe.  I would appreciate any comments, tips or suggestions on what you think!

Nick’s Beans 

A thank you goes out to my husband who trimmed about four pounds of beans for me today while watching Enemy at the Gate!

Serves 4

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 large onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon Paprika

2 pounds Romano beans, trimmed

2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

2 teaspoons Vegeta

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons sour cream

1 teaspoon white vinegar

In a wide, shallow saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat and sweat onions until translucent, but not coloured.  Add the garlic and paprika and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.  Add the beans, along with one cup of water.  At this point, it may be difficult to stir the beans into the onion mixture since they are still firm; instead, cover the pan with a lid and allow the beans to simmer and soften.

Meanwhile, peel the tomatoes by scoring their bottom’s with an “x” and submerging them in boiling water for 2 minutes.  When cool enough to handle, go ahead and peel the skin away from the flesh.  Remove the core and quarter the tomatoes.  To remove the seeds, simply squeeze the quarters over a bowl.  Chop up the quarters and discard the seeds.

After about ten minutes, uncover and fold the beans with the onion mixture.  At this point they should be just beginning to soften.  Give it another 5 to 7 minutes of simmering, with the lid on, before you add the tomatoes.  Once you add the tomatoes continue to simmer with the lid on for about 10 to 15 minutes.  You want the beans to be completely tender, with no bite whatsoever.  Once they have reached that point, add the Vegeta, salt and pepper to taste.  Stir in the sour cream and white vinegar at the very end.  Serve immediately.

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